I’m sorry it’s been over two weeks since my last post! I got sick, then needed about a week of rest, then had to play catch up before I could sit at my computer. I don’t think I’ve gone 17 days in between posts in years, ack! Anyway, this is Part 2 of Day Eight in Italy and we were about to explore Old Barga in the Tuscany region. This was by far our favorite day of the trip. We completely fell head over heels in love with this quaint town and even looked at real estate listings here! If we had all the money in the world, we would open a Bed and Breakfast in Barga and retire to Italy. That’s how much we loved it. This post also took some extra time because we initially had 188 photos with 5 stars between the two of us… culling those down to something reasonable to share was brutal (I think there are just over 80 photos with a few videos). I will have a bonus post called Barga Doors to share next… I’ve always loved doors and have several personal projects photographing doors. This day was truly magical!
Porta Reale
Barga is located in Tuscany, in the province of Lucca, within the region called the Serchio River Valley and the Apuan Alps. Home to about 10,000 people (Old and New Barga combined), we were about to enter Old Barga. This medieval town is situated on steep terrain with a castle (now a church) dominating at the top of the city. The city is surrounded by a stone wall with three gates allowing entrance, two of which survive today. Porta Reale (the royal gate) is the main gate in which to enter. You can see a map of the town on the right and the observation tower above.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Curtis’s version of Porta Reale.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/22 | 1/1600 | ISO 4000
3 Priests Walk Into…
We walked through the Porta Reale gate and into Old Barga. The buildings are colorful and very old. The stone streets and cobblestone paths are narrow and inviting with the tall buildings crowding the streets. We began walking up the main street, slowly making our way to the castle. Curtis went ahead as I stopped to snap a few photos. I got this one of three priests walking down the path toward me, their faces lit by the bright sun, as they smiled and talked.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/320 | ISO 100
The Long Walk
An elderly woman walked by and nodded at us. She turned onto a walkway and began carefully making her way down the steep walkway. She seemed like a quintessential Italian matriarch!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/4.5 | 1/320 | ISO 100
In the Distance
We came to an open space with a great view of the castle. As you can see, the castle dominates the city and is located at the highest point. The Mediterranean buildings are tightly packed together in a stair-step design providing a beautiful foreground to the castle.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/320 | ISO 100
I love Curtis’s version of this… he was able to zoom in on the castle and got a wonderful perspective on that incredible sky. Rain threatened all day in the distance.
Nikon D700 | 38mm | f/22 | 1/2500 | ISO 4000
Courtyard
Looking down from where we were standing, we saw a courtyard. It was quiet, no one was really out and about (and there were no tourists at all!), and the serenity of the space was palpable. The ivy-covered walls, the lush landscaping, and the beautiful architecture made me feel extra blessed to be here.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/6.3 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Piazzetta del Ser Barghesano
Just a few steps to the right and I got another shot of the castle with this sign in the foreground. It reads:
Piazzetta del Ser Barghesano
Donata ai Barghigiani
Dalla famiglia Lorenzini
In memoria di Emilio
Ser Barghesano invented the mechanical winder for spinning silk in the 1200s which was the main trade of this town.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/320 | ISO 100
When we turned to continue walking up to the castle, there was a dog sitting outside on a patio watching us. He didn’t bark at all and then started looking up the hill. Curtis got this great shot of him.
Nikon D700 | 120mm | f/7.1 | 1/800 | ISO 1000
I love this image Curtis captured of this small statue of the Virgin Mary and a plaque in the building’s niche.
Nikon D700 | 105mm | f/7.1 | 1/800 | ISO 200
Peeking Over
We were on the long winding (and steep!) road leading up to the castle. Curtis went over to the stone wall to peek over the side. You can see a wrought iron handrail attached to the side of the path. I was proud that I did not need to use it.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Steps to the Duomo
As we turned the corner of the road, we could see that we were almost to the castle. Blooming roses lined the right side with beautiful bushes and trees on either side.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Curtis’s version… I like his composition a little better than mine.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/7.1 | 1/800 | ISO 200
Duomo di Barga
We reached the top of the road and I stopped to snap a photo of the plaque adorning the wall of the Duomo di Barga, also known as the Collegiate Church of San Cristoforo, Barga. The inscription reads:
IL SUONO DELL’OROLOGIO DELLA TORRE CAMPANARIA
DI QUESTO TEMPIO ROMANICO
ISPIRO AL POETAGIOVANNI PASCOLI
1855-1912FIGLIO ADOTTIVO TERRA BARGHIGIANA
I VERSI SUBLIMI DELL LIRICA“L’ORA DI BARGA”
BARGA 15 OTTOBRE 2006 G. PIA
A CURA DELL’IST. STOR. LUCCHESE SE2.01 BARGA
Loosely translated, it says that the melody of the church bells are inspired by the L’ora di Barga poem written by Giovanni Pascoli, a famous late 19th century poet who lived in this region. In fact, Pascoli’s house was turned into a museum and is at the base of our resort, the Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort and Spa.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/5.6 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Approaching the Church
When we reached the castle, we saw the first few tourists of the day. I can’t believe this place isn’t overrun! It’s so beautiful!!! Construction on the castle was started in the 11th century and continued until the 16th century. Built in the Romanesque architecture style, it is made of local limestone and marble. The castle served as a strategic fortress, private residence, and is now a church.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/11 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Curtis got a nice shot of the front of the castle as well.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/7.1 | 1/800 | ISO 200
Unassuming Entrance
Compared to St. Peter’s Basilica and many other smaller churches in Rome, the Duomo di Barga has a very plain and unassuming entrance. You see the tiny door and bench on the left of the entrance? I get a great shot of that once we finished touring the inside, shown later in this post.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/11 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Pure Wonder
As I was shooting the entrance to the church, this little boy came running into frame and walked up the steps. Talk about perfect timing! He has an air of wonder as he ascended the steps.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/11 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Church Bells
I had my cell phone out to get a video of the church and the view. I was so tickled when the church bells began to ring.
iPhone 6S+
View from the Top
Turning around from the entrance to the church, this incredible view greeted us.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Touristy Cell Portrait
I offered to take a family photo for another group of tourists and they reciprocated the favor. I’ve been using this photo as my Facebook profile picture since that very day!
iPhone 6S+ | 29mm | f/2.2 | 1/1900 | ISO 25
Glory to God
Before going inside, I walked to the right of the church to get this shot of a cross at the top of a pillar. You can actually see this cross in the Duomo di Barga photo earlier.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/14 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Holy Water Font
We walked inside the church. Initially there was a partition that you had to go left or right to avoid, so we went to the right. The inside of the church was very dark and one of the first things I saw was this holy water font. This fresco was painted in the 14th century and depicts St. Lucy.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.2 | 1/160 | ISO 2000
St. Christopher
Barga’s patron saint is St. Christopher. This castle, now a duomo, the Collegiate Church of San Cristoforo, Barga is named after him. This painting shows him carrying a child across the river. The artist is Nicolao Landucci, a 19th Century painter.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.2 | 1/160 | ISO 2000
Statue
A statue of St. Christopher sits in front of the painting.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/1.8 | 1/160 | ISO 2000
I like Curtis’s version with both the statue and painting of St. Christopher in the same frame!
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/4 | 1/30 | ISO 3200
Small, Dark, and Beautiful
Small doors on either side of the church let light spill in from outside. There is no electrical illumination inside the duomo. Light also filters in from various windows. An organ sits along the back wall and you can see a raised pulpit inside of red velvet ropes before the main seating area. The pulpit designed in the 12th century by Guido Bigarelli da Como rests on lion sculptures with four red marble columns going up to intricate carvings.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/1.4 | 1/160 | ISO 2000
Curtis got this perfectly exposed image of the windows on the right wall.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/4 | 1/30 | ISO 800
The Left Door from the Inside
Coming into the center of the church and turning to the left, I got this shot of the open door. The light was so beautiful spilling into the darkened interior that I took a moment to appreciate the play of light and shadow.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/1.8 | 1/160 | ISO 2000
Curtis got this wonderful close-up of the intricate detail present on the outside of the seating area. I love the stained glass bokehed in the background.
Nikon D700 | 52mm | f/4 | 1/60 | ISO 3200
Signed the Guest Book
I noticed a small table on the left side of the church with an open journal. I wandered over to investigate (and I have to say that I am not sharing nearly a dozen more photos from inside this beautiful church because we just had too many!) and saw that it was a guest book. Of course, I had to sign it! “From New Braunfels, TX, USA, Curtis and Holly Thompson.”
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/1.4 | 1/160 | ISO 2000
I then went over to the right side of the church to check out that aisle. The right door was open and because the inside of the church was so still, the air nearly oppressive with heat, the breeze through the door made me stop and close my eyes. I was so blissfully grateful to be in this moment. I didn’t realize that Curtis snapped this picture of me until later.
Nikon D700 | 35mm | f/13 | 1/25 | ISO 3200
He also got this beautiful shot of the open door… perfectly exposed… with the tree and mountains framed within its opening. Gorgeous work, babe!!!
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/16 | 1/25 | ISO 200
Beauty Everywhere
Coming over to the left side of the church toward that open door, I turned around and could see the statue and painting of St. Christopher in the background with a large marble statue in the foreground.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/1.4 | 1/125 | ISO 2000
Front Door Details
We finished up inside and reluctantly went back outside. On my way out, I stopped to get a shot of one of the front doors. They look deceptively smaller from the outside but are in fact, quite massive.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/4.5 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Little Door and Bench
Remember that shot earlier of the front of the church? Here is a close-up of that little door and bench. The door isn’t quite 5 feet tall to give you some perspective. We saw many of these small doors and were reminded that people were much shorter centuries ago.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/6.3 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Curtis got this great shot looking up at the main tower.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/22 | 1/1000 | ISO 3200
And this shot of the church bells, called the campanile, comprised three bells, the oldest of which dates to the 16th century.
Nikon D700 | 95mm | f/22 | 1/1000 | ISO 3200
Side Door
Walking to the left side of the duomo, I got this shot of the left door. The building seemed to dwarf the doors but they were actually quite large.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/320 | ISO 100
I think this is on the rear side of the church… Curtis went exploring a little more than I did.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/22 | 1/320 | ISO 2500
Perfectly Framed
On the far left edge of the property is this beautiful view of the Tuscan hills and the town of Old Barga. I love how the trees perfectly frame the scene.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/7.1 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Curtis got a similar shot!
Nikon D700 | 38mm | f/22 | 1/320 | ISO 2800
Man at the Top
Exiting the left side was a steep staircase. I stopped at the bottom to look back up and saw a man standing at the top edge of the wall. As there were no handrails on this staircase, I had to carefully walk down.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/7.1 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Curtis got the same shot, only with a portrait orientation.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/11 | 1/320 | ISO 250
Dizzying Look Up
Down at street level below the Collegiate Church of San Cristoforo, I looked up at the main tower of the church. The staircase looms with the man at the top still looking down. I love all the angles in this photo!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/6.3 | 1/320 | ISO 100
We then walked down a bit to an open area. To the right is another church. Curtis took this beautiful image.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/11 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Chiesa del Santissimo Crocifisso
This is another church called the Chiesa del Santissimo Crocifisso. It’s the second oldest church in Barga having been built in the 13th century. On each side of the doors, statues of Saint John and Saint Catherine sit inside of niches.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/250 | ISO 100
Inside the Church
Stepping inside the church, we were struck by how much brighter it was than the castle. The church was empty with rows of simple wooden pews lining the center of the nave. Photos adorned a wall to the right with altars along the left.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.2 | 1/200 | ISO 2000
Curtis went vertical (portrait) for his shot and I like this orientation better.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/4 | 1/100 | ISO 3200
Gorgeous Altar
At the center rear of the church sits this beautiful gilded wooden Baroque altar. Dating back to 1646, it was built by Francesco Santini of Cerrito. (Can you see me reflected in it?) Art from the 15th-17th centuries adorn the walls.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2 | 1/200 | ISO 2000
Lots of Stairs
We continued our exploration of Old Barga and found this very steep staircase. I was following a map on my phone to make our way around the left side of the city, since we had made our way to the top (and rear) section of the city culminating in the castle by ascending on the right side.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/5 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Curtis again gets a portrait orientation of the same shot… I think this perspective emphasizes the steepness of the stairs.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/22 | 1/400 | ISO 3200
Inviting Opening
We came to a little landing area at the base of that steep staircase and found this opening with charming mailboxes just inside. It was so inviting, I wanted to go in and explore.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/4 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Come Inside
Looking inside the opening revealed private residences (you can see a striped curtain hanging in an open doorway on the left side) with another set of stairs going up. I wish someone had been in there and invited us in to explore!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/4 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Italian Kitty
We kept walking and decided to go right at the next fork in the path. As we turned to go up again, this kitty cat was watching us intently to see which way we would go. Look at all of the blooming flowers in planter boxes. So quaint!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/5 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Curtis got a closer shot of the cat. He took off shortly after this.
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/22 | 1/400 | ISO 3200
Row of Homes
At the top of this next path, we came to a large open area at the edge of a cliff. Far off in the distance was a row of colorful homes climbing up the mountainside. We stopped to catch our breath here for a moment.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/4.5 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Curtis used his zoom lens to get a close-up of one of the houses scattered along the mountainside. They had a pool!
Nikon D700 | 75mm | f/22 | 1/500 | ISO 800
He then turned around and got this shot of me. I was so happy. That hat, ha! I forgot to tell you about standing in front of the duomo… just after we got our photo taken by a fellow tourist, the wind blew that hat right off my head! It flew down down down and Curtis was kind enough to go fetch it for me. He was gone a long time!
Nikon D700 | 50mm | f/22 | 1/500 | ISO 3200
So Peaceful
I wanted to show my mom the beauty and peacefulness of this place so I took a video of the surroundings.
iPhone 6S+
Nondescript Church
Just behind us on our left we noticed another church. It’s doors were open but no one was inside. I never did learn the name of this church. It seemed like a local church that residents frequented.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/6.3 | 1/400 | ISO 320
Eclectic Inside
The black and white tile seemed out of place for a church… I usually associate that look with diners here in America. The furnishing and paintings were an eclectic mix.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.5 | 1/160 | ISO 1600
Cross at the Altar
Walking up the altar, I got this shot of the cross with the beautiful painting behind it.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2 | 1/160 | ISO 1600
We walked back outside and on the side of the church was another tiny door. Curtis made me pose beside it. He would’ve had to duck to enter!
Nikon D700 | 24mm | f/9 | 1/320 | ISO 2500
Porta Macchiaia
We came across the other remaining gate, the Porta Macchiaia. The sky looks more threatening in the background but we had still been blessed by good weather on our walk.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/6.3 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Built on the Edge
Turning 180-degress from the Porta Macchiaia, we see the valley to the right and Old Barga to the left. The city really was built on the side of a steep cliff!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/8 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Curtis got this great shot of the valley. There was a large park down in that valley that looked very overwhelming to reach.
Nikon D700 | 38mm | f/22 | 1/1600 | ISO 3200
Via dell Aquedotto
Standing next to this wall along the cliff, looking behind us, we see that row of houses from higher up. The street where these are located is called Via dell Aquedotto. I wish now that we had taken a taxi over there to check out that street!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/8 | 1/320 | ISO 100
Stop
This is one of my favorite images of the day. I mean seriously… look how picturesque! A red bike, a stop sign, and countless beautiful flowers adorn the corner of a Tuscan home in Barga, Italy. Is this not quintessential Italy???
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.8 | 1/320 | ISO 400
Approaching the Stop Sign
I was so enchanted with the scene I had just photographed, that I backed up and took a video of this tiny street approaching the stop sign. Love!!!
iPhone 6S+
Curtis spotted this child’s bouncy toy up on a shelf and snapped a picture. Reminds me of those horses you’d sit on as a child and bounce around.
Nikon D700 | 120mm | f/9 | 1/800 | ISO 3200
New Barga Main Road
It was now late afternoon headed toward early evening. We decided to cut through Old Barga to the main road of New Barga. We walked across the motor bridge that we saw from the pedestrian bridge as shown in the post Day Seven and Eight (Part 1). New Barga has decidedly less charm and appeal than Old Barga but it is a sweet town to visit nonetheless. It was here that I found a few gifts to bring back for my mom and Curtis bought me a rose from a local florist!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/9 | 1/400 | ISO 400
Scooter Mirror Reflection
I had just finished purchasing some Italian pasta and herbs when I left that shop and spotted a motorized scooter parked on the sidewalk. As I passed it, I noticed some other tourists in the mirror going into the shop I had just left. I quickly grabbed a shot while I could. I think it’s kind of cool.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/6.3 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Italian Pediatric Logo
We were getting hungry and started to look for a place to sit and have a snack. I started paying more attention to the shops we passed (mostly closed!) and saw this logo in the window. I couldn’t imagine what it would be for… I mean it looks a little naughty but then there is a baby crawling at the bottom… ah! It’s a pediatric office!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.8 | 1/200 | ISO 200
Drink and Snack Stop
Since we had a late breakfast at the hotel and gelato when we got to Barga, we were hungry for real food. The concierge (Antonia, she is AMAZING… we tried to bring her home with us!) at the Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort and Spa said that Old Barga had some of the best restaurants in the region. Since it was close to 5:00 p.m. already and most of the restaurants didn’t open until 7:00 p.m., we decided to have a hearty snack and a drink. We stopped at the Bar Alpino and ordered a couple of drinks and sat and people watched. My honey is so stinking cute!!! All around us were locals speaking English with heavy Scottish accents. It was such a trip!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/3.5 | 1/200 | ISO 200
Great Intersection View
After our first drink, we moved a little to get a better view near the front of the bar. Isn’t this intersection so cool? So many signs and so much was green. I was studying Yelp to see where we should have dinner. We decided to sit another 30 minutes then instead of heading back to the resort, we would walk back over to Old Barga for dinner.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/4.5 | 1/320 | ISO 200
Old Barga Outskirts
This is the main road that we ascended in the post Day Seven and Eight (Part 1) to reach Old Barga. Curtis had gotten a cool shot of this stone wall. I pulled back and got the curve in the road, the outskirts of the buildings, and even some graffiti. We didn’t see much of that at all in this area of the country!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/4.5 | 1/250 | ISO 640
Enticing Path and Gate
Following the map to the first restaurant Antonio had recommended took us up this enticing path with a beautiful gate. (Pssst, there is another photo of this gate coming in my bonus Day Eight ~ Barga Doors post coming soon!) The way the light wrapped around the greenery and tucked into the shadows made my photographer heart so very happy.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.8 | 1/250 | ISO 640
Abandoned Red Scooter
We walked up an extremely steep path (with Curtis asking, “Do you really know where you are going?” hoping that the restaurant would be worth the hike) when we came to this open area where the path divided. I was captivated by the abandoned red scooter lying on its side just off center. Combined with the red in the Italian flag and the potted red geraniums, having three different objects of the same shade of red checked off a couple of compositional guidelines.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/3.5 | 1/250 | ISO 640
Perfect Spot for Wine
We walked to the first restaurant Antonio had recommended. Curtis was hot, tired, and hungry. The host said that (the completely empty restaurant) they were completely booked with reservations. We said, “Ah okayyyy…” looking around seeing no one eating and lots of seating. We were confused but decided to walk to the next restaurant nearby. On our way, I spotted this garden area with flowering bushes and seats made of metal that looked like people built into the wall. It looked like the perfect spot to have some wine! Even the designs in the building are pointing to it!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.8 | 1/250 | ISO 640
Annual Barga Jazz Festival Site
We visited the second restaurant and it was much smaller than the first. Again, not many people were there yet but the hostess said they were fully booked with reservations. I persuaded Curtis to walk to one more. We passed by the center of town where the theater is located. You can see the tower of the Duomo in the background and people sitting on a red bench in the center. This is where the town hosts the Barga Jazz Festival every year. Started in 1987, it draws the most tourists to the area every summer.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/5.6 | 1/320 | ISO 640
Spooky Carving
We were almost to the third and final restaurant that Antonia recommended. Yelp also gave it a high rating. Our hopes were high. It was getting late and we were beyond hungry and tired. On the way, I grabbed a couple of quick photos and this spooky carving was one. I searched high and low all over the Internet but I could not find out what it was called or why it exists in the first place. If anyone knows, please let me know! The carving is about 4 inches square and inset into the side of a building. It’s the only one we saw.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.8 | 1/320 | ISO 1000
Such a Pretty Street
So the last restaurant was a wash too. Curtis was pretty darned frustrated so we decided to hoof it back to New Barga and either grab a fast-food type pizza or get a cab back to the hotel. This is the street we walked on our way out of Old Barga for the night. More and more people were out and about, but it was still deserted compared to Rome, Naples, and Capri.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/2.2 | 1/320 | ISO 1000
Sunset Over New Barga
We stopped one last time at the big roundabout viewing platform and I got this incredible picture of the sunset over New Barga.
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/8 | 1/500 | ISO 400
Mountainous Sunset
Turning just to the left was the sunset over the mountains. What a glorious way to end a magical day!!!
Nikon D750 | 20mm | f/6.3 | 1/500 | ISO 400
Thanks for looking! New week I will share a bonus post (just 14 photos, I promise!!!) of the Old Barga doors… I’ve always had a “thing” for doors and the doors in this town were so charming I couldn’t resist snapping photo after photo. Then we only have one more post to go after that where I will combine Days 9-11 since we didn’t take that many pictures the last few days. I so appreciate everyone who takes the time to look at these and comment too… makes the hard work worth it!
